Erice is a village perched on a mountain overlooking Trapani. Visiting the village takes about 2 hours. The original inhabitants of Erice were the Elymians, who arrived from Troy around 1200 BC.
You can follow Rick Steve's Town Walk or just wander on your own. Start at the Porta Trapani, one of 2 entrances to the city.
The larger stones in the lower portion of the gate are from Carthaginian times and the smaller stones on top are from Norman times.
Just inside the gate, turn left to find the Chiesa Madre. The large covered porch, called gibbena, was reserved for those who were not penitent. They were not allowed inside the church.
Take a detour from the tour to see the Chiesa di San Martino, a Gothic church built in the 14th century.
Then, follow Rick Steves' walk to #5--View of Trapani. Nearby is a sign--"Obligation to Kiss."
Torri del Balio--These towers are from the original medieval castle.
Castello di Venere--Castle of Venus. This began as a temple to the Phoenician Goddess of Love, Astarte, in the 7th century BC. It was converted to a Roman temple to Venus. Making a sacrifice to Venus could assure smoother seas for sailors. The sailors had a creative way of making a sacrifice--they paid a visit to the priestesses (ierodulai) in the temple. The word iarusa means "prostitution" in Sicilian.
Retrace your steps toward the center of town to find the Convento e Chiesa di San Francisco
Nearby is Chiesa San Guiliano
Continue the tour to Piazzetta San Domenico
Then, follow it to Piazza della Loggia, a large square with several buildings.
In one corner is Ristorante Bar Nuovo Edelweiss
Look closely at the top of the building. You'll find planters shaped like heads. One story of the origin is an Arab man wooed a beautiful woman. When she found out he was married, she chopped off his head and planted basil seeds. She watered the plant with her tears and the plant grew lush. Passerbys thought it was the unusual pot that produced such beautiful plants and created Moor head planters of their own. Another version is an Arab and French noblewoman had a love affair, which was forbidden in Norman times. When her father discovered the affair, he decapitated both their heads and set them on the castle wall as a warning.
Between the heads, you'll see a pine cone. The pine cone is found all over Sicily. It is a symbol of health, good luck and prosperity and cannot be missing from a house.
Frugal women make rugs from recycled fabric and strips of material, which are sold all over Erice.
After the Piazza della Loggia, make your way to Porta Carmine, which is part of the Phoenician town wall.
Follow the wall until you reach the Campanile and Chiesa Madre. You can purchase a ticket and climb to the top of the tower.
2022 04 15
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