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Day 4--Apulia to Chafe

  • TravelingFoodie2
  • May 27, 2023
  • 2 min read

Day 4 was a long day. We went from Apulia—Fao—Esposende—Marinhas—Mar—Belinho—Ponte S. Sebastiao—Castelo do Neiva—Chafe. It was 24.8 km (14.9mi) and took 6:22, 61m up/43m down.


It was a mix of walking through towns, along the coast on boardwalk, on sand trail and on forest path. It was really windy on the coast. I put on my down jacket and gloves.


Windmills on the coast.

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The path next to the road.

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Walking on the Ponte de Fao to cross the Cavado River.

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Thirty minutes north of the Ponte de Fao, we arrived in Esponsende and found Confeteria Marbella, located on R. Primeiro de Dezembro 71.

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Confeteria Marbella is known in the area for its cakes and pastry. We stopped to have a snack--cafe--€0.80 and pastel--€1.20

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Just a block north of the Confeiteria Marbella, we found Igreja Matriz de Esposende. It was initially built in the 16th century and has 2 bell towers.

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We came upon this Cavaleiro sculpture of a man on a horse.

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The Forte de São João Baptista de Esposende has controlled the mouth of the Cávado since the reign of Peter II at the turn of the 18th century. The lighthouse was built in 1922.

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The beaches in Esponsende.

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Stone bridge over the Rio Neiva. Notice the arrow pointing the way.

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Castelo do Neiva is a small town, a little away from the sea.

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We couldn't find a restaurant on our journey today but did find Mercados Coviran, a grocery store located at Rua de Santiago, 13 in Castelo do Neivo. We stopped for lunch—freshly baked warm rolls, prosciutto, cheese, potato chips and Sumol (a carbonated Portuguese soda). Lunch for 2 was €6.

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In front of the grocery store was a statue of St. James. It must be a popular stop for pilgrims.

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After Castelo do Neiva, the path took us through the woods.

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2023 09 29

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